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Installing a cosy wood-burning stove can be a satisfying DIY home project. However, leaving sufficient air gaps around your stove is crucial for safety and heating efficiency. Follow this step-by-step guide to learn about proper clearances and achieve a safe and stylish wood-burning stove installation.

Air gaps, or clearances, around your wood burner serve two essential purposes:
Adequate airspace allows convection currents to flow around the stove, circulating heat into the room. Without gaps, heat could be trapped around the stove and fail to warm the space.
Insufficient air gaps can lead to overheating nearby walls, floors, mantels or ceilings. Overheated, non-combustible surfaces like brick or stone may discolour, crack, or crumble. However, overheated combustible materials like wood framing present a significant fire hazard.
It’s clear that wood-burning stove air gaps are necessary for safety and heating efficiency. But what exactly are proper clearances? Let’s look at the factors involved.
Your wood-burning stove’s instruction manual will suggest minimum air gaps, usually around 2 to 6 inches on the sides. Follow the manual specifications whenever possible, particularly if they exceed building code minimums.

However, manufacturer guidance is only a legal recommendation when clearances involve non-combustible surfaces like brick or stone. Still, manual specs provide excellent direction to prevent surface damage or discolouration. Consider adjusting your design if you can’t meet the recommendations.
Local building codes dictate the legal minimums for clearances to combustible materials like wood framing or panels. These mandated wood-burning stove air gaps are much more significant, usually 12 to 18 inches on the sides. Building codes don’t regulate gaps for non-combustibles.
Some building inspectors treat manufacturer manuals like gospel. Know both your codes and manuals thoroughly. Only building code rules are legally binding, but you may need to negotiate with your inspector, especially if gaps fall between the code minimums and manual recommendations.
The clearances needed depend partly on what materials surround the stove.
Brick and natural stone won’t combust, so they can legally touch the stove body. However, direct contact may damage the finish or discolour the surface without an air gap as a buffer. Follow manual guidance for non-combustibles.
A cement backer board is considered non-combustible, but the adhesive binders can deteriorate under high heat. To prevent cracking, leave a 4-5 inch gap behind and alongside.
Combustible mantels require more significant gaps above the stove – usually at least 8 to 12 inches. The extra height prevents excessive heat exposure to the wood. Wider side gaps are also wise.
Tile, metal, and glass won’t burn, but they can discolour, warp or crack without adequate air circulation. Consult your manual recommendations for non-combustibles.
Convector stoves circulate heat via internal chambers, so their exterior surface stays cooler than that of single-walled radiant stoves. Thus, convector stove manuals may specify smaller side gaps in some cases.
Now, let’s walk through wood-burning stove air gaps during installation, step-by-step. Follow this guide together with your stove manual and local building codes.
With a methodical installation focused on safety, your wood-burning stove will provide cosy warmth and comfort on those chilly winter nights. Just be sure to leave sufficient air gaps around your wood burner. Follow this guide, and you can’t go wrong!